Though a straight line appears to be the shortest distance between 2 points, life has a way of confounding geography. Often it is the dalliances and the detours that define us. There are no maps to guide our most important searches; we must rely on hope, chance, intuition and a willingness to be surprised.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Super Jumbo Smashing Great


The Airbus A380. Actually, 'the' Airbus A380. This is perhaps the future of air-travel. But at the moment, there's only one in service in the world.

I'm in Delhi. The last time I updated the website from India was exactly six months ago, in very different circumstances. I'm now here with work! I'm on a 12 day trip to visit some organisations that Opportunity International has been working with, or is looking to work with in the future.

I'll shortly have plenty to say about the trip itself I'm sure. It's only the end of day one, but already it's been a great experience. But it is only the end of day one. So I'll say nothing more about India yet.

Instead, I'll start from last week. Pre-departure prep was eventful in itself. Last week I worked like a dog and was in the office at 7am more than once.

Having never felt more motivated at work, it wasn’t hard to do.

I needed to fuse the wires a bit after that week and went out for a (fairly) big one on the Friday night with Ed. Good night. Got up the next morning for my Saturday morning ocean swim. I enjoyed this as much as ever, really pushing myself under grey skies. I was amazed by the visibility in the water, out beyond the waves. It was incredible, the light reaching right down to the sandy bottom far below. Far clearer than I’ve seen before at Bondi.

In contrast, the weather was poor and the by the end of the session the grey skies had turned dark and soon raindrops were pebbling the waves. It didn’t feel cold to me, but I guess it was. In any event, the next morning I woke up completely bunged, with a sore throat, and generally feeling rubbish. More than anything, I couldn’t believe the timing.

Due to fly to India the next day.

Visiting a centre for the most destitute, disease-prone people in India the day after that.

I snuffled my way through Sunday, doing a few hours work, meeting up with a couple of friends and eventually washing, ironing and packing at the very last minute, finally getting to bed just before midnight with a horrible sicky feeling that the 6am start would not be a pleasant one.

But then I caught a break.

I woke the next morning having – as usual – allowed myself 12 minutes between getting out of bed and leaving the house. When I have to get up early, I won’t get up any earlier than absolutely necessary. If you can shave, shower (do the other sh…), apply deodorant and aftershave, dress, check keys (wallet and ipod), leave the house and lock up in 12 minutes – and you can, if you want to, you can – why would you get up any earlier?

I think I was at the getting dressed stage before I realised I felt fine. Not just fine but great. Cold gone. You could say someone was looking out for me. It certainly seemed miraculous in my vocabulary.

My day improved to the power of about six when I got a more than pleasant surprise at the airport. After a lengthy weight for check in, and a rather uncomfortable delay in the departure lounge, my flight was at last called, slightly after the scheduled departure time. As I made my way to the tunnel to board the aircraft, I glanced at the front of the plane and it looked, well… …funny. A bit different. And boy was it.

For 40 years, the Boeing ‘Jumbo’ 747 has been one of a select number of celebrated icons that have come to symbolise technological progress in the modern age. It is a colossus of popular culture, one of just a few ‘objets’ that have grown to embody the ingenuity of man and the simultaneously shrinking and growing world that we live in at the end of the 20th Century and start of the 21st.

But as of the end of January 2008, there was one (and still only one) commercial aircraft in the world that could top the 747. There can’t be anyone with even a passing interest in planes, flying, or even just travel generally, who doesn’t know all about the Airbus A380 Superjumbo. At last, after four empty decades, we have something that can show some progress in our mastery of the skies (Concorde aside… which I love, but which in all honesty had a rather limited impact in the history of passenger flight).

You can see how these two stories are converging. But before that, I just have to point out again that there really is only one aircraft that tops the 747 right now. Not just one model, but one plane. Due to well-publicised problems in production, Airbus were only able to deliver the first A380 to launch-customer, Singapore Airlines, in October 2007. And they have yet to deliver another… to anyone. The plane only flies one route, and even that route it shares with a number of other aircraft.

So I was exceptionally lucky to be one of the first few hundred-thousand people to fly the A380. And if you think that sounds less than impressive, bear in mind that there have been more than a billion passengers have flown in a 747.

Anyway, enough fluff and bluster, what was it actually like?

Singapore Airlines configuration allows for just 471 seats from a maximum possible of 800. So there was plenty of room. In this first aircraft, some seats are omitted, almost at random it seems, which adds to the sense of spaciousness. Plus, for a double-decker aircraft, the headroom was phenomenal. I’m looking up and thinking, how can the ceiling be so high, when there’s another couple of hundred seats above my head? And then there are the wings. They are colossal. Anyone with a window seat anywhere from row 33 way back to row 49 is sitting at the wing.

But though some things seemed bizarrely big, a lot of other areas looked pretty similar to any other wide-bodied aircraft. The toilets, for example, are just as pokey as ever, and bizarrely – given that the flight was only a third full – there didn’t seem to be enough of them.

And yes, you did hear right. The plane was a third-full at best. I think it’s about eight years since I was last on a long-haul flight that was so empty. Maybe it was the day of the week, or the time of year, but it seemed frankly bizarre that the plane designed to increase global air-passenger capacity should start its life with so many empty seats.

But for me, that didn’t detract from the experience, but rather did much to enhance it as I was able to switch seats and move about the plane freely.

Not that you would feel the need, as the seats were extra comfy. Like a good recliner chair (and unlike any other economy class seat I’ve experienced), the base part tilts as you recline the seat back. And then – as can be seen in the next picture – there’s the entertainment system. The best feature of the new system – narrowly beating the USB port for charging your ipod, and keyboard for creating word/excel docs – is the huge, high-resolution widescreen display. I’d swear my old laptop had a screen about that size, and I used to voluntarily watch movies on that.

Talking of which, I caught the 2007 Australian film “Noise” on the flight to Singapore. What an exceptional piece of cinema. This is one of the most beautifully filmed (and soundtracked) films I’ve seen in years. I can’t wait to see what the director, Matthew Saville, does next – you will hear of him again. It’s great that the Australian arts/film scene is capable of something so wonderful, when television in Australia is so appalling.

On the later flight from Singapore to New Delhi I watched Ratatouille. One of the best pieces of cinema I’ve seen in years. In fact, I’m going to come right out and say it. No messing. Without a word of a lie, it was even better than Toy Story 2. Seriously though, I can’t recommend Ratatouille enough. The story and script are as good as you could ever hope for and beautifully put together with drawing and animation that are probably better than any other animated film to date.

Anyway, back to the A380. With the seatbelt signs on and the safety demonstration underway (it was tempting to pinch one of the safety cards as a souvenir, but I resisted), I peered out over the huge wings and could just discern we had started taxiing toward the runway. Take-off itself was the quietest by far that I’ve ever experienced. The engines are super-quiet and you begin to worry that there has been some kind of thrust failure before the plane gently and undramatically lifts into the sky. A little disconcerting the first time to be honest, but definitely something you could sleep through in future.

After take-off we were quickly served a meal, a Sinaporean dish that was easily the best in-flight meal I’ve had, and close to a proper restaurant meal. One less visible, but well appreciated feature of the plane was the air-conditioning. Usually on long-haul flights you get off the plane feeling like you’ve been lightly poached, like an overly-healthy breakfast egg-option. Not here. If I was breathing another two hundred peoples’ germs, it certainly didn’t feel like it.

You can probably guess by now that I’m quite excited about the Airbus A380. And not because I’m a tech-geek, I’m truly not, honest. I’m just very excited about the cutting edge, about achievements that push beyond everything that’s ever been done before. That’s why I’m so excitable about space exploration (and so bored and exasperated by the International Space Station) and anything else of that ilk. The world’s fastest car. Or the world’s tallest building (also frequently mentioned on this website).

But while I get a buzz from hearing about these things, there is a limit. If I were given the choice of spending money on constructing a kilometre-tall building (plans for which were recently announced in Kuwait) or spending money on poverty relief, I’d say let’s all live in bungalows.

At least that gets me back to the subject of poverty. Which is what I should be talking about here anyway. Cue the next update.
The A380, after we touched down at Singapore airport. The ‘nose-on’ shot above captures the unusual shape of the aircraft. It’s ovular, or egg-like. Which explains all that head-room. So I guess the tagline could be: “The A380, fry without getting poached.” (sorry, sorry)

Sunday, January 13, 2008

2008 and all that


(Composite 180 degree image of Circular Quay with 116,000 tonne Cruise Ship, Sapphire Princess on the left, Harbour Bridge in the middle, and Opera House just visible through the trees on the right).

I can hardly believe it’s the 13th already. This update is soooo overdue. So without any further delay…

Sailing

One of the highlights of life since I got to Sydney was sailing Chris’ Taser dinghy in the Sydney harbour. It was a quiet day down at double-bay with much of gentrified Sydney having left town for the holidays.
(Tasers, like Chris' dinghy)

After much stretching of gibbets, curling boom lines and sheathing cleats (I have no idea what I’m talking about), the boat was ready and we wheeled her down to the water.

This is where the fun began. I hadn’t thought that boat launching could be so treacherous. In even a light wind, we managed to tip the boat over, fall out and slide about on the slimy bottom. After some assistance from experienced sailors (they had their names painted on the side of their boat – losers!) we found ourselves in the water,

Chris is a pretty good sailor and he was a pretty damn good teacher too! I started at the front of the boat, managing the ‘front sail’ (jib sail?) and we were soon making great progress, the boat tipped up at an angle and both of us with our feet in the feetstraps (footstraps?) leaning right out of the boat to keep us from capsizing.


(James and I head down to the beach!)

So mostly, we were tearing across the harbour with some skill. Though Chris did allow me to take the tiller (I’m sure I’ve got that one right) at one point with two hilarious episodes.

Turning the boat at speed is a pretty sudden, violent event. A sharp turn is essential to avoid losing speed, but not too sharp. On one particular turn I managed to turn a bit too fast, let go of the tiller and the next thing I knew I had my head under the water – in fact rushing through the water – with my feet still in the footstraps. Chris was able to reach over and pull me back into the boat, though in the panic I wasn’t able to pay due care to my shorts which were by now half-way down my backside, showing a good few inches of butt-crack!

With the sails out of control, thankfully the boat came to a halt. Unfortunately, when I looked behind me the Manly ferry was almost on top of us, with around a couple of hundred people seeing our predicament!

And, after a few near misses we did eventually capsize on our way back to the jetty. Actually, it was much easier to right the boat that I’d thought. And good fun actually!

Ocean Swim too far…

After my first sail in a dinghy, my next sporting achievement was to be my first ocean swim the following Sunday morning. And then the storms came. Not to Sydney but to the Central Coast. Though the weather in Sydney was good, the storms created a huge swell right down to Port Jackson, and Bondi was pretty heavily affected!

I went down for the training session on Friday night and the surf was big, real BIG. As we swam out I found I couldn’t calm down enough to breathe properly. The exertion of getting out beyond the waves had me out of breath and every time a huge wave came, I’d have to hold my breath as it washed over me. I was exhausted by the time I got beyond the surf, and then I had to swim back in.

(Left - fireworks explode from the Harbour Bridge.)

And then half way through I got absolutely bundled by a huge wave. When I came up, I’d lost my goggles. I got back to the beach and said to Spot, the coach, that I was going to have to call it a day as I’d lost my goggles and I was wrecked! But, in that typical aussie way, Spot laughed that off saying “You don’t see me wearing goggles. Come on, just get back out there.”

So I did last until the end of the session. But, with the forecast for the surf to get even bigger, I made the decision to skip the competition on the Sunday. I was back at Bondi the following Saturday and it was flat calm. Hopefully when I do get to a competition – probably after I get back from India now – the weather will be more like that than the previous weekend.

New Year

New Year in Sydney. Even the idea seems epic. After Christmas week, I was pretty much partied-out already. I would have been happy with any kind of night at New Year, but I was delighted with Circular Quay.

(Right - Keith and I meet some Scottish girls (!) on Hogmanay.)

Keith and I and a bunch of Peruvian friends had tickets for Cruise Bar. Despite incredible difficulties getting to the bar – a major problem on Hogmanay – it was a great venue. We met some nice people and of course the fireworks were immense.

Otherwise

Yeah, otherwise I’ve been partying hard and working hard. My room is looking more homely – photos to follow when I get my nice new canvas prints from my trip up on the walls. I’m getting better and better acquainted with Sydney’s nightspots and I’ve found a couple of new beaches around the harbour.

Lastly, my trip to India is booked! I fly out on the 21st and get back on the 1st of February. More about this soon. Should be epic…

Still didn’t mention the weather.


(Six Peruvians and two Scotsmen celebrate New Year in Sydney.)

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Christmas in Sydney

Looking a bit goofy after swimming the surf on Christmas morning.

How to describe Christmas in Sydney… I had about ten days off from the 21st of December until the 2nd of January. I spent almost all of that time socialising and swimming. Sydney has a Christmas party season like no other. After nine nights out in a row (nine in a row!) I at last had a night in on the 29th.

It’s been a great time to meet people. The two top events were Ed’s Christmas Day Bonanza (truly it was a great day!) and the Boxing Day races at Randwick Racecourse.
Ok, Evita definitely looks better in this outfit than I do.

Christmas Day started with a trip to Bondi for a swim with my German friend Babette. After struggling out of bed, I borrowed Dreadlock Dave’s car (about which, more later) and drove over to Bondi. It was cloudy in the morning and the beach was half-full at 11am. Babette and I braved the waters for about 20 minutes with a bunch of other people. It was a great wake-up call for Christmas Day.

Christmas at Ed and Dace’s was a superb day and evening. We had a real multinational mix, with a few Latvians, a Thai girl, an Iranian, a Peruvian, a couple of Aussies and Keith and I representing Scotland. Keith did a fantastic job making top-quality cocktails (mojitos and cubraroscas) but the piece-de-la-resistance was Ed’s turkey which was perfect. Brilliant meal – almost as good as mum makes it. We had some good party games and a bit of a singalong. Since my karaoke appearance at the work Christmas do, people seem to have been encouraging me to sing all the time (about which, less later).

Pretty hungover on Boxing Day, but couldn’t resist an invitation to Randwick Races International Day. Another crazy aussie idea where anyone with a foreign passport gets in free. Guess who forgot his passport.

What a brilliant way to spend Boxing Day. I went with my flatmates, the two Daves and met a huge number of other Irish peeps. There were an outstanding number of well-presented ladies there. And I think there was some horse-racing going on somewhere as well.

As well as the partying, I have done some more wholesome stuff over the break. In preparation for the competition next Sunday, I’ve been swimming about 2km each day in the Olympic size pools near my flat and in the Botanic Gardens. The weather has been awesome since Christmas and it’s a great way to exercise. Slowly building up the stamina I’ll need for the long-distance events.

The absolute best even off the holiday has been going out sailing with Chris. But that deserves a website entry of its own and will have to wait until the new year…
Dave larking about after I forget my passport and have to pay to get into the races.

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Zimbabwe Ruined

The Zimbabwe Ruins, as visited by the author back in July.

There are two articles in the press today about Zimbabwe. The first is in the Economist magazine, where they have unveiled their country growth forecasts for 2008. Modest or strong growth is predicted for the majority of sub-saharan African countries. The exception is Zimbabwe where the economy is expected to shrink drastically in 2008.

Contrast that with Zimbabwe's own forecast of 4% growth for 2008, announced last month by Zimbabwe's Finance Minister.

I know which forecast I'm putting my money on.

I may even bet my 1,000 Zimbabwe Dollar note that I kept when I left the country in July. And the other story today was that Zimbabwe is to issue new banknotes with values of 250,000, 500,000 and 750,000 dollars. The 200,000 dollar note (which was introduced when I was there) will be phased out...

...and if you wonder what you could buy with a 250,000 dollar note?

How about a Big Mac.

Central Bank Governor and Finance Minister - two of the hardest jobs imaginable.

But I'm sure - like Mugabe's other cronies - they'll be living in luxury as their forecasts and the fortunes of millions of their impoverished countrymen go down the toilet.

Monday, December 17, 2007

STOP THE PRESS!!!

Another gratuitous shark pic.

Check out this article which was on the front page of the BBC news website yesterday!!
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7146551.stm

The article reports that:


A swimmer has been attacked by a shark at Australia's Bondi Beach, a favourite with tourists from around the world. The shark reportedly grabbed the man by the arm but he escaped after punching it on the nose.

Its common knowledge among Australians and tourists alike that punching a shark on the nose is the conventional defence if attacked. Less conventional is what the guy did next...

The man reached the Sydney shore before collapsing in a cave in which he was said to be living temporarily. He was later found by his girlfriend.

Eh??? The guy is 'living in a cave'...? What's that all about? This immediately suggests to me that there's something fishy (so to speak) about this. And sure enough...

A lifeguard spokesman said the man had gone swimming in the dark on Friday, which was strongly discouraged.

Channel Ten reported it was believed to be the first shark attack at Bondi Beach for 70 years.

So there we go, not much to worry about for another 70 years. And only then if you're crazy enough to go swimming in the dark. Though probably as well that I didn't know about this incident when I went into the exact same waters less than twelve hours later!!!!!!!!!!!

Finally, I also have to point out that he was later found by his 'girlfriend'. Isn't Sydney an awesome place when even a guy who lives in a cave can get a girlfriend...


A cave, yesterday.