Though a straight line appears to be the shortest distance between 2 points, life has a way of confounding geography. Often it is the dalliances and the detours that define us. There are no maps to guide our most important searches; we must rely on hope, chance, intuition and a willingness to be surprised.

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

A little bit of Bliss and a little bit of that…


Man, it’s been ages since I’ve updated the site. There’s been nothing quite as outstanding as the trip to Mexico to report on. Instead I’ve been very busy working away. And been busy outside of work too. Am building up a portfolio of bizarre and unlikely tales these days!

Last week I had my big meeting with the director of BCVI. This was the key moment in my three-month project. The meeting went well. And work done so far is broadly on track. There is still plenty to do though and I’ve been very busy in the office since then. Overall, I’m relieved to find that the work should be a really helpful contribution and I’m very pleased with how things have gone.

In fact, I’m now making changes to my plans so that I can do more charity work during the rest of my trip. As well as being rewarding in itself, doing the charity work has allowed me to be really integrated into life here – I have an interesting time at work and a great social life outside of work in a way that I wouldn’t have if I was just travelling and lying on the beach.


Didn’t think Belize was a world leader in technology until I saw this horse and carriage with fully-integrated poopa-scoopa. Maybe not a great feature for long-distance passengers…

I’ve been in touch with the Red Cross in New South Wales and I’m hoping to get involved in a project with them when I’m there in the Spring. This might involve working between Melbourne and Sydney and I’ll have to extend my stay in Australia, and sacrifice time in SE Asia. Sure it will be worth it though.

Outside of work, I’ve been busier than ever. Went to see a Mexican Acapella group - Voz En Punto - at the Bliss Centre for the Performing Arts. Really entertaining - the sort of act that would go down great at the Edinburgh Festival. Went to a fundraiser with Teri last weekend, which was a really nice night out and an introduction to Belize’s unusual auction rules, where I bid Bz$70 for a meal for two, was outbid but still had to cough up the 70 bucks – was for charity though! Also went back to my favourite weekend retreat, Caye Caulker, with Naomi last weekend.

And I got to the Museum of Belize at last, the highlights of which were the intriguing public accounts of state executions, major fires and hurricanes, the last two of which are as perilous for Belize now as they’ve ever been.

Someone asked for a picture of Belizian jugs. I hope this is sufficient to satisfy all you pottery enthusiasts out there.

This weekend past, Evan and Mari invited me along to Mari’s father’s 65th birthday party at his house in San Estefan, up in the north of the country. I felt very honoured to be asked and it was a great weekend… photos below. Also borrowed a bike and managed to crash it and take all the skin of one of my knees. A lot of the time I’ve felt like I’m about 22 again over here, and sometimes more like half that…

Evan and I were in charge of the barbecue…


…it wasn’t friendly territory for vegetarians, or chickens.


Lovely photo of Mr and Mrs Vega. Note the bottle of Scotland's finest.

All the children… (Mari is at far right)


…and grandchildren

Next weekend is another holiday weekend and Teri and I are going to enjoy a wee bit of luxury again out at the Cayes. Also hope to scuba dive the world-famous Blue Hole. Should be pretty special...

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Baby Yucatan Drive My Car!


a little luxury

Yay!! After all the planning and false starts I finally made it to Mexico without any planning at all. On the spur of the moment last Thursday, my good friend Teri and I decided on a road trip to Cancun.

We left Belize at 6pm on Friday evening, heading north up the Yucatan peninsula and into the darkness in our little hire car.

Carribean beaches on the Yucatan coastline.

Like any good road trip, the drive was a rollercoaster of emotion – mostly shock and awe. I don’t know what happened to my usual Schumi composure but it’s fair to say that my driving put a few years on poor Teri and added some more grey hairs to my barnet. My biggest problem was not being able to see the speed bumps. The Belizian and Mexican authorities have both adopted the dubious policy of placing these hazards anywhere and everywhere, including in the middle of the countryside and often across four lanes of dual carriageway. I guess it gives the locals some amusement. I hit one bump near the Mexican border at a good 50mph+.

As well as getting some good ‘air-time’, I also had a couple of arguments with trucks, drove through stop junctions without slowing down (I’d swear they weren’t particularly well marked, though Teri was, probably quite rightly, convinced otherwise) and ran a red light. Plus, I left the lights on all night resulting in the battery running down and our hotel having to give us a jump start, I managed to pull the door handle off the passenger door and the electric windows got jammed in the down position, though I’d like to think that last one wasn’t my fault.

Who needs a De Lorean to travel in time. Just take one Dodge Tracker, get her up to 55mph (88mph is a little outside her capabilities) and hit a Belizian speed bump. Me and my Teri-fied Mexi-codriver saw everything from 1974 onwards flash before our eyes.

After all this adventure we were ready for a bit of luxury when, at 4am, we at last arrived in Playa Del Carmen, a few miles short of Cancun. And what a great resort we found. We had a good 24 hours or so of being pampered, with massages, free drinks, fab food and great accommodation. So nice to have a couple of glasses of good wine too, which is extortionate in Belize due to the local taxation.

The place was awesome and we were more than a little reluctant to leave. In amongst the traveling and relaxing, we also got to the Mayan site of Tulum. This is smaller than some other sites, but well visited by virtue of its closeness to the big Mexican resorts.

Of the three Mayan sites I’ve now visited, Lamanai has the most impressive structures, Altun Ha has the best atmosphere, but Tulum is the most photogenic. At Tulum, the clear blue sea and white sand adds something extra to the blue of the sky, green jungle and grey stone temples and rocky outcrops...

…plus a touch of purple weed…

…and some bright flowers. Makes for a great palette.

A little mention for the St Louis Cardinal’s big win in the World Series. Teri and I arrived in Chetumal just in time to see her home team wrap up the biggest prize in baseball with a 4-1 series win over the Detroit Tigers. Go Cards!!!!!!

Wave goodbye. A weekend of traveling, temples, good tunes and great company. So sorry to leave Mexico.

Lamanai

Our knowledgeable guide with the 1500 year old carving off the Jaguar God.

When the Mexico trip was scuppered by passport problems, I made some virtue out of adversity by doing the one-day boat trip to the ancient Mayan site of Lamanai instead. This is one of Belize’s most popular tourist activities and was a pretty nice trip, though not quite as memorable as Altun Ha.


I saw an alligator, dolphins and these howler monkeys over the weekend. Sadly the only close up wildlife photos I get are when the wildlife has passed over to the other side...

Gordon Brown was always jealous of his Belizian counterpart’s exotic walk to work

The huge, and hugely impressive, Temple of the Jaguar.

Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Gone Fishin’ or, 9 Men in a (5-man) Boat

Saturday: Finding Nemo Sunday: Fish Supper

Another cracking weekend for photos. After a few false starts this was to be the big weekend when we did BOTH the fishing trip AND the trip to Mexico.

Well… nearly.


The peace and tranquility of Haulover Creek at 5am is about to be disturbed by 150 horses.

The crew tuck into some meat pies for breakfast.

The fishing trip was a great lads day out. There were seven of us, including Evan, Mr Torres from next door, Ulises from El Salvador and Evan’s brother Wilbur. A 5am start was essential as we had to allow for a fair amount of faffing to get our kit in the boat, stock up on lots (and lots) of petrol and pick up our two ‘drivers’.


No small, open boat trip is complete without two large containers of 4-star.

Our route was a pretty ambitious one, covering half the country’s coastline, stopping at Frenchman Caye and Caye Caulker, and running within a flare’s distance of most of the other Northern Cayes.

Our boatman scans the shallows for the rare and exotic fish known as the ‘sardine’.

First stop was at Frenchman Caye, where a few of us transferred to a smaller boat to go fishing for the bait. It’s fair to say that the trip was always going to be 90% journey and 10% fishing and was all the more enjoyable for that. We actually spent longer (unsuccessfully) fishing for the bait than we did for the fish!

Mr Torres with the first catch of the day.

About mid-morning we arrived at our fishing site, just off the picturesque and exclusive Caye Chapel. I’m no fisherman but, in principle at least, the line-fishing technique sounded pretty straightforward to me:

1 Attach a sardine head or lump of non-specific fish to your hook
2 Throw the bait and weight as far as you can (making sure the other end of the line is securely attached to something in the boat – essential, that bit)
3 Hold the line taught and wait for a nibble (ooer missus)

Timing is now key. When the fish starts to nibble…

4 be patient and wait for it to take a bigger bite, at which point
5 jerk the line violently towards yourself (being careful not to fall out of the boat). If your timing is right, there will now be a fish pulling on your line, which you can
6 reel in hand over hand.

In practice my timing was – to use the Belizian – crap. After about twenty minutes, everyone else had one, two or three fish and I still had none.

My duck is broken as I catch my first Grunt. (So called because after you pull them out of the water they make a grunting noise – bit unnerving that.)

I’d like to think I then got the hang of the timing. Though it might just have been luck. In any case I caught five fish in a pretty short space of time, including…
…The catch of the day.

This beauty was a Shell Fish. It has eyes and lips like a horse and head-on is almost a perfect triangle in shape. I was tempted to throw it back as it looked more like an exotic pet than prey but I was assured that it is very tasty (a bit like chicken) and it is now safely stowed in the bottom of Mr Torres’ freezer.

The rest of the trip was spent celebrating our good fortune in sea-faring style, including a stop at Caye Caulker to replenish our beer and rum supplies.


When the rum runs out the crew resort to wearing their pants on their heads for cheap laughs.


Evan does a moving Cpt Bligh impersonation. Though the solemnity of the moment is rather spoiled by the boatman grinning over his rum and coke.

The last stretch of the trip was a long motor up the coast to Rocky Point. From here we could see Mexico across the waters of the Caribbean, before we turned west for the run along to Sartaneja and San Estevan where we stayed the night. Sadly that was as close as I got to Mexico. Due to some confusion, which was largely my fault, though Evan insists it was his, I left my passport in Belize City and so when we got up in the morning I had to stay in Belize. Foiled again.

‘scuse me, while I kiss this pike…

Friday, October 20, 2006

For a Change

Rather than the usual weekly update, I thought I’d post a bit of the diary I’m keeping. This isn’t a typical day for me, in fact the opposite. I hadn’t done anything like this before and it was an amazing day. Hope I’ve captured a bit of why it was so interesting.

Beautiful Corozal district

On Thursday I saw the rehabilitation side of BCVI’s work for the first time. Evan, Joan Samuels (BCVI’s rehabilitation director), Shamira (the local rehabilitation officer), and I visited families and schools in Orange Walk district who look after disabled children. I think the issues we encountered were typical of the problems and challenges, and opportunities, facing the rehabilitation staff.

The first family that we visited seemed reasonably well off by Belize standards. There were four primary school-aged children in the family, including twin girls, one of whom was blind. The children all seemed happy and a little curious about us, and in particular my laptop and camera. The blind girl kept a small bicycle with stabilizers in the house and as we sat with the parents, she brought the bike out into the living room. After a moment, she started to ride around the room, now and then making a very high pitched brrrrrrrr… noise, like a sort of alarm. Mrs Samuels told me that the child was using the echo to let her know where the walls and other obstacles were, and that she had learned to do this by herself, without any instruction. The little girl is 5 years old.

Evan downloaded some Braille instruction materials onto the father’s computer. The father was very keen to get all the information he could. In particular he wanted to be sure not only that he had the basic Braille instruction material, but also the more advanced books on mathematics and science. Mrs Samuels explained that sometimes there can be a problem if parents or teachers are too keen. The child can end up feeling overwhelmed if they are expected to do too much before they have mastered the basics of working in Braille. But seeing the father’s enthusiasm was really encouraging.


After passing on the materials and arranging a repeat visit in a few weeks, we headed off. The second family lived in a much more modest house, similarly remote from the main towns in OW district. The boy has recently left school at age 15. He is blind but has a great attitude. BCVI are planning a project that will help him earn a living by rearing pigs at the family home. We went out into the small field at the back of their house where there is a well and a pen, which seemed very cramped for the two full-sized pigs inside. BCVI hope to work out a detailed plan that will allow the boy to manage all stages of the enterprise from piglets to fully grown pigs and to build proper accommodation for them, and ensure they have food and water. The boy seemed very enthusiastic about the project, and the pigs. The pigs looked rather unenthusiastic, and ill equipped for the intense heat. Sweating and panting, they lay like beached whales, their dilated eyes staring into the heat.

Crispy Bacon

After this we visited two primary schools where we checked up on two girls with visual impairment. The first girl wore glasses but, even corrected, her vision still had limitations. We asked the headmistress how the girl was getting on. She seemed content with the girl’s progress at the school, focusing on the fact that she had ‘never complained of any problems’ in class. However, when pressed, the teacher conceded that the girl wasn’t making as much progress as her classmates, and though she never complained, this was probably more of a communication issue rather than a true reflection of the impact of her disability. Evan and I went to the classroom where Evan spoke to the girl and gave some advice to her teacher, advice which he hopes will better ensure that the girl is integrated into her classes.

Belize in October - so hot that the dogs sleep in ovens, just to cool down

In the second school the girl was a little younger, perhaps 6 or 7, and seemed to be less keen on playing with her classmates. She was quick to get upset even when Mrs Samuels simply asked her to come over to speak to her. At the same time, the girl’s teacher seemed very keen to learn more about how she could best help the girl. Later, we spoke to the headmistress. Both teachers seemed very positive about the policy of integrating the child into school life and had few doubts or concerns, even though this was the first blind child they had had at the school. Evan again gave some words of encouragement about the benefits of integration, which is still a new policy for many schools in Belize. Mrs Samuels told me after our visit that she felt that the girl’s discomfort and anger was perhaps due to her being spoiled. I guess this must be a common temptation for parents with disabled and blind children.

Evan has the clients’ needs well covered

The third family were much more remote than the rest. We crossed into Corozal district via a hand-cranked ferry and drove for the best part of an hour on a heavily pot-holed and mud-caked road. When we got to the family home, which was very much more modest again. The mother lives there with her four young children, three of whom are disabled, one confined to bed. The other two disabled children were both playing in the kitchen and living room. They were blind and were unable to walk or support themselves.

I might have expected the children to be introverted or quiet, or to look unhappy, but they were anything but. They laughed and played and seemed completely happy and content. Mrs Samuels said they were always like that. I felt really moved to see them so happy, with so little.

Windy Miller is disappointed to find that his holiday in Belize is just like being at home

Outside, Evan showed me the wheelchairs the children had been using to get to school. The distance from the school to their house is about half a mile and the road between the two was appalling, as shown in the condition of the chairs. Both had parts missing, damaged wheels and broken footrests. I would have guessed that the wheelchairs had been shoved into this corner of the garden a long time ago, except that when I looked more closely I could see that they were in fact very new, the stitching in the back of the chairs clean and undamaged. Evan explained that the chairs were indeed nearly new but that the condition of the road was such that no wheelchair could be expected to last more than a couple of months.



It was all the more disappointing that here were two children who had a fantastic attitude and had been given the resources that they were judged to have needed, but that those resources were going to waste. Evan is determined to do something about this though. He plans to put a proposal forward to buy a golf cart for the school, which the teachers could use in the morning to collect the two children. Evan posed as I took photographs of the state of the road outside the childrens’ home. Back in the house I took photos of Evan with the children. I also took a photo of their sister who sat quite calmly the whole time, like a little angel. These photos will help Evan put together a case for funding for this project.


On the way back, we spent quite a bit of time talking about the social issues that the rehabilitation staff encounter, social problems which are all the more visceral and unavoidable for staff due to BCVI’s policy of visiting their clients in their homes rather than relying on their clients coming to the health-care centres to visit them.

In many cases, BCVI’s work seems to be hampered by the behaviour or attitude of the parents and guardians of those that they are trying to help. It could be argued that the value of BCVI intervening is called into question in a situation where the parents aren’t helping, or appear to be actively making the situation worse. Mrs Samuels was very much of the view that, regardless of the attitude of the parents, BCVI had a responsibility to the children and, unless it was impossible, they should do what they could to try to help. Where difficulties have to be lived with, they have to be lived with, and worked around. One of the biggest lessons to be learned in working in rehabilitation is that you have to provide help on the clients’ terms. It’s no good BCVI staff trying to reach a particular goal and set of outcomes that they themselves have devised. Assistance can only ever be given in a way that fits with the client’s view of what is needed and wanted, though there may be a role for BCVI to play in trying to educate parents to appreciate the benefits to the children of BCVI’s assistance.

The trip was a real education. I came away with a lot of love for the children and strong feeling for what BCVI is doing. I also have a great deal of respect for BCVI’s rehabilitation staff and their approach to working with the children.
Mangrove Swamp (not a German prog-rock group from the 70s)